Backpacking Cambodia: 3 Suggested Itineraries for Your Trip

Cambodia. Often overshadowed by neighboring Thailand, it’s a country full of warm and friendly people, beautiful coastlines, a lively nightlife, and a growing foodie scene. It’s also one of the cheapest countries in the region.

To be honest, I didn’t have high expectations when I first visited in 2006. Back then, all I knew about Cambodia was its awful history involving the Khmer Rouge and that it was home to the Wonder of the World Angkor Wat.

But I was blown away by the people and their warmth, spirit, and hospitality; the beautiful natural scenery; and the country’s long history. It was wonderful, and I ended up staying weeks longer than I thought I would (I especially loved Phnom Penh). I returned often, including spending over a month there when I was writing my first book. (It made for a great base of operations.)

In the last decade or so, Cambodia has grown by leaps and bounds. Sleepy little towns I visited before are now megacities, tourists (especially Russians and Chinese) visit en masse, there are more ATMs (there was exactly one in the country when I first went), and there’s a growing expat and foodie scene.

Cambodia still has problems, but it’s a lot more cosmopolitan today than when I first went. There are a lot more travelers here too, making it a great place to explore as a backpacker or budget traveler as it’s now a little easier to get around.

But what should you do when you visit Cambodia?

How should you plan your trip? Where should you go and where should you stay?

Below are some itineraries that include the best destinations in Cambodia to help you plan your trip. You can follow my suggestions to the letter or mix and match itineraries — whatever you prefer!

 

What to See and Do in Cambodia: A One-Week Itinerary

Day 1 – Phnom Penh

The capital of Cambodia, Phnom Penh had something of a Wild West ambiance when I first arrived, with dusty streets and a “devil may care” atmosphere. It has a few good attractions and an up-and-coming foodie scene.

The main attraction is the Royal Palace. Start there, and don’t miss the beautiful flower gardens and the Silver Pagoda, whose floor is made up of more than 5,000 silver tiles; inside is an emerald-covered Buddha and a diamond-covered Maitreya Buddha. It also has murals around its outer wall that tell the story of the Ramayana.

On the palace grounds are five stupas, with the two largest to the east containing the ashes of King Norodom and King Udung (the two most famous kings of modern Cambodia) and a statue of King Norodom on horseback. (Currently closed due to COVID-19).

After seeing the palace, learn about the country’s tragic, not-too-distant history. The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is a former school where the Khmer Rouge interrogated and tortured people in the 1970s. You’ll see rusty beds and torture devices, in sharp contrast to the beautiful trees and lovely jasmine smell in the gardens. Admission is $5 USD for adults and $3 USD for anyone under 18.

Afterward, head to the Killing Fields, about 14 kilometers (9 miles) from Tuol Sleng. Although a visit to Choeung Ek (the best-known site) may not be the most cheerful way to spend an afternoon, it makes for a hallowed and memorable experience, a testament to the dangers of uncontested power. You won’t believe the memorial building in the center that is filled with skulls. Admission is $6 USD; expect to pay around $15 USD for a return-trip tuk-tuk (which you can share with a couple people to split the cost).

(Tip: Visit the museum before heading to the Killing Fields, as it will open your eyes to the atrocities that happened here.)

Where to Stay in Phnom Penh: Mad Monkey – A lovely social hostel with a bar & restaurant, beer garden, and swimming pool. They organize all kinds of events and tours so it’s easy to make friends here.

Day 2 – Phnom Penh

Spend your second day wandering around the city, and start by seeing the Independence Monument, designed by architect Vann Molyvann and inaugurated in 1958. It was created to mark Cambodia’s independence from French rule, though it also serves as a de facto war memorial. It’s one of the biggest landmarks in the city and a good place to start your day.

Also, be sure to check out the Cambodian Living Arts Center, a traditional dance school and performance center where you can watch students in training and see traditional live theater. This is a fun way to spend a couple of hours learning about the artistic traditions of the country. Tickets start from about $25 USD. Sometimes there is a dinner show as well!

Make sure you stroll along Sisowath Quay on the Mekong River. The 3-kilometer (1.9-mile) walkway is busy and full of restaurants, bars, cafés, and shops and makes for the perfect area to soak up the local pace of life.

If you have more time, there’s also the Central Market. Built in 1937, this art-deco ziggurat seems very out of place in Phnom Penh. A huge dome with four wings (it’s super ugly), it’s a wonderful place to seek refuge from the midday sun. You’ll find everything from clothing to electronics to souvenirs here but save your shopping for elsewhere because even when you bargain them down, you’re still paying a hugely inflated price. But wander around, stop for a drink, and take in the scene. Just watch out for pickpockets while you’re here.

Day 3 – Sihanoukville

Get an early start and take a five-hour bus ride to Sihanoukville, named after the ruling prince of Cambodia in 1964. It was a lazy beach town until about 2010, when it took off with travelers (and tons of Chinese and Russian tourists on package tours) because of its white-sand beaches, nearby deserted islands, excellent diving, and delicious seafood. Its varied nightlife filled with cheap booze makes it the premier backpacker party city in Cambodia.

If you’re looking to soak up some sun, Independence Beach and Otres Beach are probably your best bets. Serendipity Beach used to be a great party spot, but there’s a lot of Chinese development going on now, so I wouldn’t stay there.

Where to Stay in Sihanoukville: Onederz – This hostel is a bit basic but it’s fine for a night before heading over to the islands. It’s cheap, there’s a pool, and it’s close to all the main sights.

Day 4 – Sihanoukville

Today is a day for day trips.

From Sihanoukville, hop on a boat and take a 45-minute ride to Koh Rong. While you can stay overnight, if you’re pressed for time, you can do it in a day trip (but stay overnight if you can). The beaches here are way better than on the mainland (and a lot less polluted). Snorkeling day trips cost approximately $25 USD and include lunch and equipment; there are PADI-certified schools in the area that offer a variety of different dive trips for one or more days.

If you don’t feel like heading to Koh Rong, you could book motorbike trip to Bokor National Park (as well as longer, multiday trips if you’re interested). There, you can hike through a great rainforest or see the atmospheric ruins of the French aristocracy for whom Bokor was a big drawback in the day. You’ll have some amazing views and find ruins, waterfalls, and temples all around. Motorbike day tours cost around $140 USD.

You could also do a day trip to Kampot and the pepper fields in that area too. Half-day tours cost around $25 USD.

Day 5 – Siem Reap

It’s gonna be a busy travel day. From Sihanoukville, you’ll need to return to Phnom Penh and then get on another bus to Siem Reap. I recommend Capitol Tours. It’s a 12-hour ride, so it’ll be evening by the time you get to Siem Reap.

(Note: It’s better to take the night bus so as not to waste a day. You won’t sleep well, but you also won’t lose a day!)

Siem Reap is located on the northeastern side of Tonle Sap Lake and is the main access to Angkor Wat. The center remains a rural old town, with French-style houses and shops. The area around the Old Market is crowded with locals and foreigners all day long and has a bit of a party vibe to it.

Where to Stay in Siem Reap: Mad Monkey – A fun, lively, and social hsotel with a bar, pool, and lots of tours and organized activities to help you meet people and explore the city.

Day 6 – Angkor Wat

Spend your day at Angkor Wat, the ancient city that was the center of the Khmer Empire that once ruled most of Southeast Asia. The temple was built in the 12th century and covers over 500 acres.

The most popular temples are Angkor Wat, Bayon, Ta Phrom, and Angkor Thom. I would recommend getting a multi-day pass so you can visit some of the outer temples where there are fewer visitors. While a single-day visit can cover the basics, this is an amazing site to explore so I highly recommend two days (at least).

You can hire a tuk-tuk for the day for around $25 USD or rent bicycles and explore on your own (bikes cost around $5 USD per day). Tuk-tuks have room for 3-4 people, making it a cheap and convenient option if you can split the ride with other travelers.

Angkor Wat is open daily from 5am to 6pm. Admission is $37 USD per person for a day pass, $62 USD for a three-day pass, and $72 USD for a seven-day pass.

Day 7 – Siem Reap

Enjoy your last day in Cambodia by exploring more of the Siem Reap area. Head over to the Angkor Wat complex for several more hours in the morning and then head over to astonishing Banteay Srei.

Known as “the city of women,” this temple was dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva and features a number of outstanding red sandstone statues. (You need an Angkor Wat Pass to visit.)

If you have time, visit Tonle Sap, Southeast Asia’s largest freshwater lake and UNESCO nature reserve. It is 52 kilometers (32 miles) from Siem Reap. Sailing down the river and around the lake gives you a look at how closely Cambodian life is tied to this major waterway. You can rent a boat for around $20 USD.

What to See and Do in Cambodia: A Two-Week Itinerary

Want to spend more time in Cambodia? Great! You should! There are tons of other places to visit. Here are my suggestions:

Days 1 & 2 – Phnom Penh
Follow the Phnom Penh itinerary from above.

Day 3 & 4 – Sihanoukville
Follow the Sihanoukville itinerary from above.

Day 5 & 6 – Koh Rong

Head out to Koh Rong, which got its name after the legend of a giant King Kong–like ape that once called the island home. It’s a 45-minute trip from Sihanoukville and a great place to relax on the beach or go snorkeling. There are a lot of accommodation options, and it’s a popular spot with backpackers.

Day trips costs around $25 USD and include lunch and snorkeling equipment, but since you have the time, spend a few nights here relaxing and enjoying beach life.

There are also other islands nearby if you want to stay longer and explore, including Koh Rong Samloem, which is becoming something of a backpacker paradise (there’s even a Full Moon Party there now).

Days 7 & 8 – Kep

In the morning, travel by bus to Kep, which is about two hours from Sihanoukville. This quaint beach town and fishing village is the quiet version of Sihanoukville: a nice place to relax near the ocean but without a party atmosphere. It’s famous for its pepper crab and empty beaches.

Consider taking two full days here. Sure, it’s quite sleepy and there’s not a lot to do, but it’s the perfect place to relax, eat all the delicious crabs the city is famous for, and read a book. You can also spend some time on nearby Rabbit Island (Koh Tonsay) too, a secluded and charming escape from the world if you’re looking to disconnect. Basic bungalows can be rented for under $10 USD per night and it’s just $20 USD to get there.

Where to Stay in Kep: Khmer House Hostel – Kep is pretty spread out, so wherever you stay, make sure you rent a bike or scooter. This hostel is a good option as it’s not far from the Crab Market.

Day 9 – Kampot

The southern region of Cambodia is filled with pepper farms where you can learn about the history of the spice, see how it is grown, and pick up what is considered some of the finest pepper in the world.

I’d spend one night in Kampot. It’s another quiet town on the coast. Most people come here to enjoy the scenic riverside views as well as the rolling hills that surround the city. The area used to be a getaway for the French, so you’ll see old French architecture around.

At night, the street near the old bridge is lined with fruit shake vendors. Try a million. The city is famous for them.

Also, if you only do one thing in this entire itinerary, make sure it’s eating the ribs at The Rusty Keyhole. They are some of the best ribs I’ve ever had in my entire life. I still dream of it.

Where to Stay in Kampot: Karma Traders Kampot – With a pool, AC, hot showers, a restaurant on-site, and a rooftop bar, this hostel has everything you need for a fun stay. The staff are great and it’s super easy to meet people here too.

Day 10 – Kampot

Today, hire hire a tuk-tuk driver to explore the Kampot area. The Phnom Chhngok Cave Temple has a religious shrine inside, or you can head out and spend the day in Bokor, as Kampot is relatively close to the park.

Days 11, 12, & 13 – Siem Reap
Follow the Siem Reap itinerary from above. Angkor Wat is best seen slowly, so use your days to explore it as much as possible. There are a lot of out-of-the-way temples to visit that are free of crowds.

Day 14 – Siem Reap
On your last day in Cambodia, why not take a cooking class? The class sizes tend to be around six people, and you will learn to prepare three different meals, as well as get recipe cards at the end. Prices start around $20 USD per person; local guesthouses can help arrange a class.
 

What to See and Do in Cambodia: A Three-Week Itinerary

Have even more time for Cambodia? Good! Cambodia has a lot more to it than the major spots on the backpacker trail.

Days 1, 2, & 3 – Phnom Penh and Kirirom National Park
Follow the above suggestions, but also head out to Kirirom National Park for a day trip. This park has all sorts of walking trails, mountain biking trails, waterfalls, and a few lakes. It was the first official park in the country and is a good place to go to take a break from the city.

The park is around a two-hour drive from the city, so you’ll need to hire a driver for the day. The best way to do this is to find some travelers to join you so you can share a ride, which costs around $80 USD for the day.

Days 4, 5, 6, 7, & 8 – Sihanoukville and the Islands
Follow the above suggestions but at a much slower pace!

Days 9, 10 & 11 – Kep and Rabbit Island
Follow the above suggestions for Kep, but head out to Rabbit Island for a rustic island getaway.

Days 12 & 13 – Kampot
Follow the above suggestions!

Days 14, 15, & 16 – Siem Reap
Follow the above suggestions!

Day 17 – Koh Ker

For a fun day trip from Siem Reap, head to Koh Ker, located around 2.5 hours from town. Koh Ker was briefly the capital of the Khmer Empire, and many of the temples here are over 1,000 years old. It’s a massive archeological site located in the jungle, and it sees far fewer tourists than Siem Reap.

There are no public buses that go there (the roads were only paved a few years ago), so you’ll have to arrange transportation via your hostel or hotel.

Day 18 – Phnom Kulen

For another fun day trip, head to Phnom Kulen, considered the country’s most sacred mountain. It’s located just 50 kilometers (31 miles) from Siem Reap and offers some amazing jungles, hiking, and picturesque waterfalls where you can take dip to beat the heat. You can easily spend a day here. If you head up to the summit, there are some great views as well as a large reclining Buddha statue. Try to arrive early as the park fills up by lunchtime. Admission to the park is $20 USD per person.

Day 19 – Battambang

From Siem Reap, you can take a three-hour bus to Battambang. Or try taking a riverboat on Tonle Sap for a unique experience (there is one boat per day, with tickets costing around $25 USD per person).

When you arrive, you’ll discover Cambodia without the tourism. Get familiar with Battambang by exploring the town on foot (or by tuk-tuk). Check out the Phsar Boeung Choeuk and Phsar Naht markets. You’ll also want to visit the gorgeous pagodas and temples, such as Wat Pippitharam (near the Old Market), Wat Bovil, Wat Kandal, and Wat Damreay Sar.

In the evening, check out the Battambang Circus. The show is put on by students at a Cambodian nonprofit art school, so your donations go to a good cause.

Where to Stay in Battambang: The Place Hostel & Rooftop Bar – With AC, female-only dorms, and a great rooftop bar, this hostel is a fun and cheap place to stay. It’s not super social but, with limited options in town, this is the best place to stay.

Day 20 – Battambang

Take it easy this morning by touring the town a bit more on foot. Check out the colonial architecture along the waterfront and the governor’s residence. This building from the early 1900s is not open, but you can marvel at the exterior.

While you’re wandering, don’t miss the Art Deco central market building and the Victory swimming pool (where you can take a dip if you’re in the mood). You may want to visit the Battambang Museum; admission is just $1 USD and you’ll learn a lot about the history of the area.

After lunch, you should grab a tuk-tuk and head a bit out of town to check out Phnom Sampeu, a large hill where you’ll find some caves with Buddhist temples in them. There’s also another cave at the foot of Phnom Sampeu; this is where you want to be around dusk, when millions of bats fly out of the cave in search of food. It’s an incredible sight! You can hire a driver for around $20 USD for a full day.

Day 21 – Siem Reap or Phnom Penh

Make your way back to one of these towns, depending on where your flight is leaving from. Enjoy the bus ride, knowing it’s your last in Cambodia (at least for now)!

***

I always love my time in Cambodia. It lacks the polish of Thailand, making travel here a little more rustic and challenging.

But more amazing than any of the country’s sights and activities are the people. I’ve always found them to be incredibly welcoming. Even with so much darkness clouding their recent history, Cambodians always go above and beyond, making any trip here a memorable one.

But don’t take my word for it. Come and see this incredible country for yourself. These suggested Cambodia itineraries can help you plan your trip, save money, and make the most of your time in this amazing destination!